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Tag Archive for 'Italy'

Robbed at the Airport

Published

on October 19, 2008

. 2 Comments

There are a few things that a backpacker likes to have on their person in case an unexpected incident arrives. As these incidents are, by nature, difficult to predict the instruments used to over come them can be at times diverse. Problematically, these items are also not usually allowed on airplanes. Working from the idea that American airline security is most likely more intense than Europes, Natalie and I opted to save the 15 euro Ryan Air requires for each checked bag and stowed these questionable items in my backpack. Natalie skated through security without a hitch. I, on the other hand, had a few problems. After scanning my backpack an estimated 6 times, they took our pocket knife. And our leatherman multi purpose tool. And our scissors. Worst of all, they jacked our cork-scew. Now I understand that trying to go through security with a knife, a multi-purpose back woods tool, and a pair of hair cutting scissor (they are made out of surgical steel) is a bit stupid. Seriously. I know. However, like Curious George I had to find out the hard way. The thing that I am really going to miss is our cork screw. I mean what did they expect me to do, grab a stewardess and illegally open a bottle of wine in order to to turn the flight into a real swinging party? I mean, how much damage can you do with a cork screw.

On a slightly related topic, Ryan Air allows each passenger one carry on bag. This bag can weigh no more than 10 kilos (I think this is comparable to about 20 pounds.) If you want to check a bag, it must weigh no more than 15 kilos and they will charge you 15 euro for your trouble. What the web site does not tell you is that you can carry a purse (or murse if you are a man) on board as well. Also, you can stow the extra weight from your carry on bag about your person as they do not mind if you look like a luggage piñata. All in all, I stuffed around 8 kilos worth of stuff inside my coat and pant pockets. This actually made me start thinking about ditching some of the useless crap that is in my bag.

So hats off to the security workers at the Treviso Airport for keeping people safe. I just wish I had my cork screw.

Riomaggiore Proposals

Published

Natalie

on October 19, 2008

in Italy

. 4 Comments

While staying in Riomaggiore, we did not stay in a typical hotel. In fact, we rented a tiny apartment about 400 square feet, with a bathroom and a kitchen. We rented from a woman named Nuccia and we found her place through Edi, and apartment referral agency. Right, so it was perfect for the three of us for a couple nights. We cooked our meals, made coffee and we were able to save money through creating our own entertainment.

After our long day of hiking Cinque Terre, I decided I wanted to savor some sweet Bailey’s. However, I really wanted ice to go with it, oh and the bottle of Bailey’s was in the car parked at the top of the mountain. Whatever! I had hiked enough that day, and if I needed to hike to the top of Riomaggiore and back to find a few treasured cubes of ice than it would be well worth the trip.

It was a beautiful evening, we could see the waves meeting the cove outside our apartment windows. I reassured the guys that I could go alone in search of ice and retrieving our Bailey’s. So, off I went, no makeup, natural and physically exhausted. Little did I know, the rose I found earlier that day was foreshadowing my romantic evening to come.

Within 5 minutes I returned from a swift walk to a nearby restaurant. I did the most direct thing I could think off. I walked into the kitchen and asked the friendly staff in Italian for some ice. The owner of the restaurant magically showed up. A sweet, older Italian man named Caesar. He introduced himself to me, kissed me on each check (a typical Italian greetin), and seemed interested in me. I kindly thanked him for the ice, “Ciao grazie!” and made my exit.

The guys were amazed by how quickly I returned with the ice. I tossed it in our mini fridge/freezer and left immediately to hike to the car.

As I walked up the tiny cobble stone street, I had to walk through the restaurant once more. No, really, that was the only way to leave from Nuccia’s apartment. Their was Caesar again, grabbing my hand and asking me if I was from California. I kindly informed him I was from Michigan, and said some other cute things in Italian to make my escape. I had to rescue the Bailey’s from our Ford Fiesta.

After about a 20 minute hike up and down to the car I was once again (now holding a bottle of Bailey’s in a grocery bag), facing the inevitable and walk right through Caesar’s restaurant.

He saw me, grabbed me by the hand again with a hawk like move and seated me at a table across from a good looking 20-something Italian man. Caesar introduced me to his grandson who had thick dark hair and soft glowing eyes. What did I get myself into? In my best Italian I touched my wedding ring on my hand and described how much I loved my husband. I even quoted an Italian aria, “mi pizzichi, mi stuzzichi, mi pungichi, mi mastichi”, yes I said, “He pinches me, he squeezes me, he tortures me, he stimulates me.”

At this point Caesar and his good looking grandson were getting the point. However, Caesar began to pour me wine. But I exclaimed that I must return to my husband so he can love me tonight. I graciously thanked him and said my farewells, and quickly returned to Cup and Justin.

After telling them of my adventures, they decided I could have obtained dual citizenship, EU passport included in the package deal, as their would have been a Riomaggiore marriage proposal that evening if I would have stuck around any longer.

How to Not Fall Off a Cliff

Published

Justin

on October 19, 2008

in Italy

. 4 Comments

When hiking from one city to another in Cinque Terre, it is a good idea to keep one ey on the edge of the cliff. In some places (read: almost never) the 5 euros each hiker pays to walk the trail has earned them a hand rail or barrier between the trail and a long fall to a quick death. In most places however, a small misstep on the rocky, and at times, treacherous path is the only thing separating your from a short free falling experience. You had better believe this can lead to some rather careful stepping by any hiker that lives to tell the tale. It should also be mentioned, although I assume this is obvious, that this tales should not be attempted while intoxicated. I image that if you have a flask of wine at each town along the way, you may not make it to the last town….

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Hiking the Cinque Terre trail can be difficult - not because the trail is overly strenuous (although it does entail walking up and down a small mountain on rocky paths) but because it is so beautiful. The entire path offers breath taking views of the Mediterranean, vineyards, olive groves, and/or Italian cliff cities. The problem is that it can be difficult to look at the view and walk the path at the same time. I found it difficult to find a happy medium between watching where I placed my feet, the only way to avoid falling off a cliff, and enjoying the picturesque, views that were all around me. When I say happy medium, this is hiker code for “I stopped a lot to look around and take pictures”. This had the added benefit of giving me and opportunity to stop and catch my breath without looking like I was out of breath. I mean, it is a bit embarrassing to be passed on a mountain trail by an 80 year old Italian man who is breathing regularly while hiking up 500 stairs. I needed some type of excuse…right?

It took Natalie, Cup, and I about 5 hours to hike from Riomaggiore to Monterosso. If you go to Italy, this experience is well worth both your time and money (even if you are limited on both). The only downside is that many other travelers and tourist apparently feel the same way so the Cinque Terre area at times feels more like hiking with a tour group than a silent walk in the woods. Either way, it is a worthwhile endeavor.

On a balcony, looking at the Medditerranean.

Published

Natalie

on October 18, 2008

in Italy

. 5 Comments

Our friend Cup lived in Gaeta, Italy with his family during his childhood between (10-14 years old). Upon deciding to return to Gaeta to see where Cup lived, he explored the possibility of spending time with some family friends.

Kiki, a good family friend of Cup’s family, owns amazing apartments on the Mediterranean. We were able to stay at Villa Accetta and enjoy all of the beauty of the Mediterranean view

While in Gaeta, Cup was able to share his childhood with us through various memories. It was amazing to see Gaeta through his eyes. Walking around the house he grew up in, the soccer field he played on, the terraced land with olive trees, the school he met other kids at, the mountain we hiked, the lighthouse, the place his dad got in a car accident, his families favorite restaurant, his first job, and other memories continually flowed from his mind and heart as we explored.

The last time Cup was in Gaeta, he couldn’t drive (well, his dad let him shift sometimes) and now Cup was driving us all around, as though we were test driving our car on the mountain roads. It was beautiful, I experienced some nausea but I blame the roads and the altitude, not Cup’s driving.

Thank you Jacob (Cup) Kobernik for sharing Gaeta with Justin and I. Swimming in the Med, cooking great food together and drinking wine on the balcony. It cound not have been more perfect.

Feel free to contact Kiki, and stay at Villa Accetta. However, unfortunately, Cup doesn’t come with the package deal.

Speed Racer in Italy

Published

Justin

on October 17, 2008

in Italy

. 7 Comments

Natalie and I have been in Italy for the last 18 days and, admittedly, life is more hectic than I expected. The lack of easy to find internet access has prevented us from writing more about our experiences. Thus, let us think of this as a summery post. I hope to write a few detailed stories in the next couple of days but… lets us wait and see.

Gaeta

Gaeta is a mid size town about 1.5 hours north of Napels. Natalie, Cup, and I spent three days here going through a walk from Cup’s past as explored one of his childhood homes. A highlight of our time in Gaeta, was climbing to the top of Monte Orlando. This relatively easy path provides a breath taking view of Gaeta and the surrounding harbor. In addition, this walk also provided an excellent insight into Italian culture as we met many people, both young and old,

Pompeii

From Gaeta, we drove to Pompeii using the Italian back roads. This gave me a chance to perfect my speed racing ability. Allow me to explain. I think that all Italians believe that they are Speed Racer. They drive in both lanes, pass 3 trucks in a row while going up hill and approaching a blind curve, and generally drive the way I would like to if the American police would allow it. This makes for some very fun driving, but also for a number of frightening experiences. All in all, I had a good time.

Pompeii, is the place to go if you are interested in Roman architecture. Apparently a volcano erupted around A.D. 79 and covered the town in volcanic ash. Although I am not hip to the specifics, this helped to preserve the town, the art, and the local architecture. Needless to say, this was a good time and well worth the trip.

Riomaggiore

Riomaggiore is the southern most town in the Cinque Terre area. Basically, there are 5 towns built along a series of cliffs and connected by a long path (mostly going either up or down) that wines through vineyards, olive groves, and farms. The view is breath taking and the hike is well worth the 5 hours and bucket loads of sweat it takes to complete. The pizza I ate in the last town, before hopping a short train back to Riomaggiore really sealed the deal for me.

This post is seriously lacking in details but Natalie and I are just figuring out the travel writing gig. Stay tuned for more details.

GPS Units Do Not Account for User Error

Published

Justin

on October 6, 2008

in Italy and Stories

. 12 Comments

Driving a car with a manual transmission is a right of passage for many American adolescent males. About 16 months ago Natalie and I sold my car (2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT). It was my first manual and driving has not been nearly as much fun since. In Europe, driving a manual transmission is the only way to drive. As a result, everything thing from family sized vans to little Smart Cars have a manual transmission. I have never driven outside of the United States and my first experience international driving experience was both memorable and educational.

Natalie and I, along with 12 of Natalie’s family members took a train from Rome to Perugia where we picked up 3 rental cars. I was appointed to drive the lead car on account of the fact that I had a TomTom GPS unit with European maps. Driving in Italy, especially in the cities, is not for the timid or the weak of heart. I had been watching Roman drivers for 3 days and I was a little nervous about being responsible for the lives of the 5 other people in my car. Putting my nervousness aside however, I took my lead from the other drivers, and shot out of the train station and into traffic, smoothly cutting off a bus and about 15 other cars in the process. This successful, although dangerous maneuver, was difficult to follow for the two cars behind me. Clearly, this was my fault. I waited for the other two cars in our party for several minutes, but when they did not show up, the passengers in my car voted and I sped off towards Passignano sul Trasimeno.

Before I started off on this Speed Racer type adventure, I programed our intended destination (the castle where Natalie’s brother Phil is getting married) into my GPS unit. With the chaos of adapting to a stick (it is very smooth but the release on the clutch is quite a bit higher than what I am accustom), adjusting to the death inviting maneuvers that are common place on the Italian roadways, and trying, unsuccessfully, to not lose the two cars that needed to follow me, I failed to notice that the GPS unit was taking us to Bagnoli del Trigno (located 2.5 hours south east of Rome).

After happily speeding along the Italian expressway for 10-15 miles, I noticed that the 30 minute drive I was intending to take, was estimated to take almost 3 hours. To make a gross understatement, this was problematic. With 4 people stuffed into a 3 person back seat (Natalie was practically sitting on her grandmother) and with my mother-in-law (also in the back) being more or less in charge of the entire wedding venture, I needed to get the car to Passignano sul Trasimeno quickly. I rapidly re-programed the GPS unit and turned the car around. GPS units often build a level of blind faith in the system. This is well deserved. However, the human factor (read: my distraction) can impose a formidable obstacle to success.

Several wrong turns and and a bumpy off roading excursion later, we eventually arrived at the castle. Our unfortunate detour allowed the two cars that I should have lead to the castle to arrive before us. Alls well that ends well.

The Value Of Family

Published

Natalie

on October 5, 2008

in Italy, People We Meet and Stories

. 11 Comments

During our second evening in Rome, Justin and I had the privilege to meet up with some of my relatives that live in Rome. These relatives included my cousins Sabrina and Fabricio, now much older than the first time we met. 16 years ago came to visit America, and I remember playing and swimming in the lake at my grandparents house. Even though we spoke different languages, we were able to play and simply be kids together. At a young age, I was already able to recognize that real kids just like me live in other countries all around the world and, better yet, some of them are even my cousins.

During my first year in high school (at 14 years old) I was able to meet some of my other cousins while visiting Rome. Luna (at the time 15 years old) and Jada (11) were so beautiful and fun. They took us to a tiny authentic restaurant where they personally knew the owners. They began to teach me the importance of getting off the beaten path while in another country. Don’t just eat where tourist eat. Be adventurous, go down a few unmarked streets with your Italian cousins, duck through a small wooden door and taste the amazing food on the other side. Needless to say, it felt incredible. I have hip, cool family in Italy and they are fun and adventurous.

Now, ten years later,as a grown woman, I was able to introduce my husband to Sabrina and Fabricio during our second evening in Rome. “Justin, these were the kids, well adults now, Fabricio (20) is now engaged and all, but I played with them at my grandma’s we swam together!”

Family holds value that cannot be measured with money or possessions. I am now able to recognize this on a whole new level. How do you place a value on spending a day with your grandma in the town she was born and grew up in? How does one comprehend creating the feeling only Christmas can bring by simply showing up? I cannot express how fortunate I am for having the opportunity to meet aunts, uncles and tons of relatives in Bagnoli del Trigno. It will be a day I will never forget. The best way to describe the joy that we experienced, is by the fact that my mother burst into tears of joy at 12 different times throughout the day.

Luna and Jada even went home (to Bagnoli) for the weekend to make wine with their dad (my uncle Basilio). So, I was able to once again spend time with my two awesome cousins now in their twenties. I do hope that we are able to meet up every decade or so. They are very special to me.

So now I sit, looking out a castle window gazing out into the Italian countryside, wondering why would anyone ever leave this? But if my grandma and grandpa had not been in America, I would not exist…

To be a woman traveling back to Italy with my grandparents considering the sacrifice and hardship they endured to make it in America, start a successful business, and all of their accomplishments. I know why they did it. It was for family!

The one strongest most motivating factor was the love that only family creates and offers.

I have translated what my Great Aunt Peurina said to us in Bagnoli, “I feel so rich, because I have all of my family here.”

She helped me comprehend the value of family a little more that day.

Amnesia In Rome

Published

Justin

on October 3, 2008

in Italy

. 7 Comments

Greetings from Italy. Natalie and I made it to our hostel (the Colors Hostel) in Rome by navigating two flights, a train, and the Roman metro. Although this may sound complicated, descriptions can be deceiving. I am sure that given enough research, a decent map, and a sprinkle of patience, most English only monolinguists could achieve the same feat.

At this point I am going to resist the urge to talk about playing frogger with Roman scooters, the immense joys of Italian wine, or the delightful (read: rank) smell of the city. I am sure many people write about these well know facts. Instead, I want to talk about how the Sistine Chapel is not in St. Peter’s Basilica.

This morning, Natalie was determined to arrive at the Vatican museum by 7:30 am The museum holds the Sistine Chapel and she possessed a fierce determination to beat the crowds to get a solid look at Michelangelo’s master work. Fighting our way of a jet lag induced coma (at 7:30. I know I know but we were tired) we quickly got ourselves together and headed out to circumnavigate the relentless Roman tourist mob.

As we walked into St. Peter’s Basillica, we were rather excited. Sure there were other people, but it appeared as if there was plenty of room to stand quietly and look up at the ceiling (this is what one does in the Sistine Chapel). Best of all, today they were not charging admission. Our immediate euphoria quickly dissipated as we wandered around the Basillica and came to the stunning realization that the Sistine Chapel is not a part of St. Peter’s Basillica. In fact, the Sistine Chapel is about half a mile North of the Basillica inside the walls of the Vatican. We were early. We were happy. We were in the wrong place. The real sad part here is that we knew that St. Peter’s Basicallica and the Vatican were in different locations before we set out that morning. Problematically, something about the dangerous cocktail of jet lag, excitement and classical architecture caused us both to suffer from temporary amnesia.

We eventually arrived at the Sistine Chapel and, unsurprisingly, there were crowds and we did have to pay an entrance fee. On the up side, the tourists did not completely swamp the chapel and we were able to spend a neck wrenching 45 minutes staring and the ceiling in awe and wonder. Not bad way to start the day.

Our first mistake

Published

Natalie

on September 9, 2008

in Concerns

. 17 Comments

It’s true. We made our first backpacking mistake. Justin and I are beginning our budget travel adventure in Rome arriving on Wednesday, October 1st. Back in late March we sent a few emails to The Colors Hotel in Rome and made reservations for 3 nights. We booked two beds in a room with 6 beds total. Yes, this means that up to 4 absolute strangers will be sleeping nearby. Not a big deal…this is part of budget travel.

Two days ago, it occurred to me that I should see if The Colors Hotel will allow Justin and I to use an “extra” locker for our little suitcase. You see, with my brothers wedding happening in Italy, the inspiration to our kick-start, we need to bring a suit (for Justin) and a dress for me. As one can only imagine, these items are not compatible to a backpack. Therefore, we plan on bringing the little suitcase and my mom (Justin’s Debbers-in-law) has very kindly accepted the responsibility of taking the little suitcase back to the states for us- once the wedding festivities are completed.

Basically, The Colors Hotel emailed me and informed me that there are no lockers. This was our first mistake. We found an awesome place to stay. [NOTE: I am still excited to stay at The Colors Hotel.] However, our mistake was that we never asked about lockers, we assumed. Now we have no place to lock our little suitcase or our 2 backpacks filled with all of our nomad backpacking stuff. Is it safe to leave it in the room we are sharing with 4 strangers? Has anyone stayed at The Colors Hotel in Rome? Do you think Rome is safe? Should we pay extra money for the private double room, at The Colors Hotel? I love how bright and colorful it looks, but dare I ask for another accommodation recommendation?

Justin and I made our first mistake, what do you think we should do?

Three current solutions I have explored:

1. Ship our stuff to the castle - DHL will charge us $327.46 for a 30lb package from Detroit, MI to Perugia, Italy

2. Store it at the Rome Train Station (they got rid of lockers after 9.11 and now have a type of luggage check in) I calculated the cost of storing our luggage (which is charged on a per hour bsis), the shuttle from the airport to the train station and a cab ride from the train station to The Colors Hotel - $101.25 total - we will leave Rome on Saturday, October 4th and take the train to Perugia for my big bro to tie the knot. So technically, it’s not completely inconvenient.

3. Get a private room with a double bed instead of the 6-person dorm room experience. We would pay an additional $183 total (an extra $61 a night).

Those are the 3 solutions I could think of. What do you think?

Will it be safe for Justin and I to just leave all our stuff in the room we are sharing with 4 complete strangers? Maybe it will be? It just makes me nervous because it’s so close to my brothers wedding date and we will just be beginning our travels. I would like to avoid having anything (or everything) stolen.

We made our first mistake. Now what?

Want to See Italy? Take Your Cup.

Published

Justin

on August 26, 2008

in News

. 3 Comments

I have a friend whose name is Jacob. Almost everyone he knows (except his family) calls him Cup. I know this is odd but he likes it and so, as a matter of fact, do I. (The fact that I had a significant part in his acquisition of this nickname certainly helps.) Cup’s name and the oddities involved with that aside, Cup will be in Italy around the 2nd week in October. This is exciting as Cup is one of my most favorite people and the chance to travel with him is an unexpected pleasure. At this point, Natalie and I, will be traveling with Cup from the 11th to the 18th of October.

Cup’s father was a navy doctor and, as a result, Cup spent his childhood living in such boring places as Iceland, Italy, Japan, the moon, etc… As it turns out, Cup and his family still know people all over Italy so the three of us may have a chance to meet up with several of Cup’s acquainted. How cool is that?

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Tag Archive for 'Italy'

Robbed at the Airport

Riomaggiore Proposals

How to Not Fall Off a Cliff

On a balcony, looking at the Medditerranean.