Sure enough, I found an article on page 124 and a gorgeous full page photograph on page 125. Feel free to browse Borders or Barnes and Noble for the December 2008 issue of TRAVEL + LEISURE Australia and New Zealand to check it out. That’s right folks, I clean toilets at a rather prestigious TRAVEL + LEISURE featured luxury lodge.
ArchivePage 2 of 10
The internet lies. I am old to enough to have realized this truth long ago. But, I foolishly expected a corporate website (www.telecom.com) to accurately tell me whether or not I could buy a cell phone in Te Anau. I expected too much. As a result, I spent 1.5 hours online trying unsuccessfully to buy a phone because the site indicated that no Telecom dealers who sold cell phones were located within 1.75 hours of Te Anau. Frustrated, I asked my favorite local: Jo. She works at the Fiordland House outdoor clothing store. Jo quickly told me that their were two places in town that sell pre paid phones: one for each cell phone company in New Zealand. Thanks to her advice, we had a phone in our hands with in 10 minutes. It was simple
The moral here is simple. When you travel, especially in English speaking countries, ask your questions to a friendly local. you will get more accurate information, you will meet someone new, and you will save at least $NZ 3 on internet access.
A Few Words Regarding New Zealand Cell Phones
New Zealand, except for the amazing scenery and the lack of natural peanut butter, can begin to feel very much like home. I mean sure, New Zealanders drive on the left side of the road, refer to themselves as Kiwis, and obsess over Rugby, but these oddities are on par with some of the bizarre things I have witnessed in the States. All similarities end however, when it comes to cell phones. As a result of what I can only assume is either an infrastructure or monopoly issue, it is impossible to purchase a plan that will allow you to make calls on your cell phone without putting a sumo wrestler size whole in your monthly budget. For example, a 400 minute plan with Telecom that will allow you to make calls at anytime of the day or night will cost you $NZ 213.75 (about $US 115). If you were to go over your massive 400 minute a month allotment, Telecom would happily charge you $NZ 0.39 per minute (about $US 0.29). To make you feel better about selling your soul to the New Zealand cell phone mafia, Telecom does throw in 10 photo messages a month so you can assure your friends that you are alive but, in order to pay your phone bill, you have taken a 2nd job working nights cleaning out portable toilets. With a toothbrush. As a result, most New Zealanders use their cell phones to send text messages. It is possible to pay $NZ10 (about $US5.40) a month to send 500 text messages so this is clearly the economical option. Unlike in the States however, it does not cost you to receive calls on your cell phone. This makes it possible for your boss, doctor, or probation officer to call you from a land line as needed without costing you a cent. A neat idea really but not acceptable compensation for allowing the cell phone mafia to force a whole country to choose between buying groceries and talking on their cell phones.
New Zealand is roughly the size of Colorado with a population of about 4 million people. Logistically, creating a national cell phone infrastructure capable of handling this type of call volume should be child’s play. The Chinese, the Americans, the Europeans, heck even the Russians have figured out how to create solid cellular networks that provide affordable talking plans to their customers. What have the Kiwi cellular companies been doing for the last 10 years?!? Seriously.
Okay. This rant is finished. I promise. But, can you guess what type of plan Natalie and I went with?
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However, on our Friday off of work, we took the leisurely Southern Scenic Route (a road) to Invercargill. As we were driving Justin saw a sign that said Lake Monowai. He thought it would be fun to take a quick
Several hundred thousand sheep, and a few tractors in the road later, we arrived in Invercargill. One of the bustling metropolises of the South Island, Invercargill is a city of 54,000 people with a great Brewery. The Invercargill Brewery. After driving in a few circles we found this tasty treasure and enthusiastically burst through the door where we were greeted by Jill. I kindly introduced ourselves and explained that we enjoyed touring Microbrewery’s around the world. Jill agreed to give us a tour of the place. (Thanks Phil and Sarah, I believe it was the usage of the word, “Beer-cation” that really got us the tour.) It was amazing to see such a tiny brewery producing such a high quality selection of beer. Jill showed us the old bottling machine, which only allowed 4 bottles to be filled at a time, and the new automated machine, recently purchased by the Brewery. The bottling process is still labor intensive but now it takes much less time.
Invercargill Brewery is a innovative brewery willing to engage locals. They even brew apple cider. This year, they invited farmers to bring various types of apples to the brewery to be blended together as a part of the “Heritage Cider”. What an incredible idea! . It was not ready yet, but I may have to spend another day off visiting Invercargill, just so I can try the “Heritage Cider”.
The brewery also welcomes a few individuals, known as the “Yeastie Boys”, every few months. The “Yeastie Boys” experiment and create a wide range of beers. After sampling ‘Golden Boy’ I was impressed by the bright flavor and smooth wheat taste. Also, it did not become bitter or flat at the end as is the nagging tendency with many inferior wheat beers. I think ‘Golden Boy’ could hold it’s own next to Sunshine Wheat, brewed at New Belgium Brewery, in Fort Collins, Colorado.
Justin and I support the local community wherever we live. If that support happens to occur at the local brewery than, all the better. In fact, after our time in Invercargill, Justin mentioned that if we ever end our nomad backpacking days and choose to settle down somewhere, having a Microbrewery nearby will be a selling point. Forget that! Why not start your own Microbrewery? The “Yeastie Boys” seem to be doing great. Their beer is available at The Malthouse in Wellington, which sounds awesome, I can’t wait to visit this establishment. I can only imagine that if beer I created was sold on tap, I’d visit often to see what the public thought of my latest creation. I hope to meet the “Yeastie Boys”, almost like backstage passes to the beer in concert in my mouth.
Perhaps, I could begin by learning from the pros and then apply my creativity, enthusiasm and beverage knowledge to create award winning beer? As a barista, I fell in love with the wild, intoxicating Espresso Love, brewed at The Corner Brewery, in Ypsilanti, Michigan. Really any coffee/beer combinations interest me a lot. The caffeinated brew is definitely worth trying.
If you are sitting reading this wondering what a Microbrery is like…I highly suggest Googling for one in your local area. You should find a rewarding educational experience on beer production and most likely have a FREE tasting session of many unique beers.
Let’s just say the Brewery sure beat Lake Monowai. Have a favorite Microbrewery? Tell me about it.
Nomad Update
For the next 3-4 months, Natalie and I will be living and working in the city of Te Anau, located on the West Coast of New Zealand in the South Island. We will spend the summer (yup, December through February is summer in the Southern Hemisphere) working at a 5 star lodge with a tremendous view of Fiordland National Park. Our work will basically entail, house keeping, serving (fine dining), bar tending, washing dishes, performing interior and exterior maintenance etc. Basically, we are seasonal “do what needs to get done” style lackies. No problem. map
Back to the Grind
Working full time in the hospitality/tourism industry is not a glamorous occupation. Like most jobs, it has its pros and cons but (also like most jobs) it has its fill of stress, pressure, and annoyances. Most people, except for some retired people who enjoy working for the sake of meeting people and having something to do (in New Zealand people call them “oldies”) work because they need a way to stay dry and eat (read: roof over their head and food in their tummies). Not more than two months ago, Natalie and I left good paying jobs and a comfortable life style to travel the world. So why are we taking a hiatus from wanderings to take up jobs in the New Zealand Tourist Industry? Good question. The answer at this point, is mostly theoretical and applies, not only to us, but to a special brand of people I like to call “Seasonals”.
Seasonals travel the world chasing a specific season, job or lifestyle. For example some ski instructors chase the winter, moving from the northern hemisphere to the southern and back again, in order to work in ski lodges around the globe. Other Seasonals chase the fruit picking season, and some Seasonals move through the different seasons working in whatever industry is most relevant to their geographic location. I have met numerous Seasonals on the road. They are not typically broke and, like retired people, often choose to work because they like too. Many Seasonals also have a means of living a more traditional lifestyle making good money in a developed country; they have simply chosen a wandering or nomadic lifestyle instead.
For a time, Natalie and I have chosen to become Seasonals. Although the money is nice to have (roughly $7-8 US per hour each) we are not in desperate need of cash. This money will help us however to extensively explore the Fiordland area without putting a massive hit on our Nomad budget. The next three months will also allow us to make friends with local New Zealanders: experiencing life from a more local, in depth perspective. Perhaps most important of all, working in the hospitably industry for 3 months will help us develop new skills that can be put to use around the globe while satisfying my curiosity regarding how a lodge/hotel works from the inside.
Reality Check
Putting aside my head in the clouds idealism for a moment, working a 40-60 hour a week job after 2 months of nomading it around the globe is a bit of a reality check. Our wandering life of trains, planes, and ferries, has abruptly been traded in for a rental house, a car (yeah Subi! see more subi pictures), and a cell phone. I even bought a second pair of pants. This is the result of my one pair of pants stubbornly refusing to dry in the 7 hours I tend to have between getting off work and waking up for work.
I like to work as I enjoy the feeling of accomplishment that comes with well…accomplishing something. Nomading, at times, makes me feel like a slacker whose life is made up of late afternoon naps, different beers (read: beercation) and stealing the occasional boat. Working provides a structure that is both strangely alluring and a bit depressing. Still, picking up a job, and the necessary stuff that has gone with it, at times leaves me looking longingly at my backpack and often stirs a strong desire to get back out on the open road.
While on Great Barrier Island, Justin and I were able to meet and become friends with Eliza Jones. She is really a phenomenal individual that you would just have to meet to be able to fully appreciate.
After obtaining our car, Justin and I needed to drive from Christchurch to the Fiordland National Park area, for our new summer jobs (it’s summer in New Zealand). Sadly Eliza Jones is working on the Barrier for the summer and we were unable to visit her in Dunedin where she goes to Uni (refer to list below). We decided to email Eliza Jones in an attempt to stay at her house with some of her Flattie’s (again, refer to the list) to have a more authentic experience in Dunedin. After a series of Face Book conversations, Eliza Jones let us know that her Flattie’s would love to have us spend the night. It’s summer in a (currently sleepy) college town. Why not meet the wild American backpacking couple, right?
So on Monday night, we showed up! Aimee invited us in, and emphasized that we could stay each night until Wednesday. We were not sure why she mentioned Wednesday, but dismissed it and assured her we would have to depart Tuesday morning because of the jobs we were taking for the summer. It wasn’t until the next day that Eliza Jones contacted us. It would seem that she screwed up and told Aimee we would be around Wednesday night. The initial surprise and excitement Aimee displayed in meeting us suddenly made more sense.
We had a blast with Aimee! The 3 of us enjoyed making a delicious pumpkin lasagna. Pumpkin seems to be cheap and readily available all throughout NZ. While we were hanging I continuously said things that Aimee did not understand. And she would say a phrase or a word that didn’t make sense to me. So, I began “the amusing list of American to Kiwi phrases and vocabulary”.
How to Speak Kiwi
Kiwi version on the left – American version to the right
flatmate/flattie roommate/roomie
bach (sounds like bit*h) beach house
jandels flip flops
slippers clogs
rubbish bin garbage can
were on the skulls were drinking on a mission
skull a beer chug a beer
pissed drunk
weedy skinny
capsicum bell pepper
courgette zucchini
boob tube tube top
plunger French press (for coffee)
stubbies running shorts
trim milk skim milk
is that crystal? is that clear?
Uni College (university)
nappies diapers
crunchies potato chips
chips fries
sunnies sunglasses
supi grocery store (super market)
omo mustache
biscuits cookies
Dairy Drug store
dial-a-meal take out
jam jelly
jelly jell-O
ear buds Q-tips
screen wipers wind shield wipers
At a Petro (Gas) Station attendants will approach your vehicle to pump gas and often ask, “What are you after?” We decided this means, “How much gas do you want me to pump into your car?” We have also sorted out why people looked at us funny when we mentioned we bought a Subaru. You see, here in NZ it’s pronounced Saah-BAR-eww (with the emphasis on the “B”).
It’s been a fun process of learning new vocabulary and trying to comprehend and decipher various accents. The list of differences between American English and New Zealand English could probably go on forever. At least with my helpful and amusing list you can now know that when a Kiwi says they were pissed, they were not upset, they simply drank to much alcohol. If someone asks for the plunger, they don’t have a toilet problem, they just want some coffee. And if a Kiwi invites you to visit their bach (bit*h) for the weekend, just say yes, it will be a beautiful weekend on the beach.
Whether reading a Kiwi author for the first time or choosing to visit NZ, my advice is to simply guess what people are trying to say and if it isn’t “crystal”, just ask.
Nomad Backpackers has now gone mobile. Seriously mobile.
The Subaru Low Down
Here are the relevant specifications for our new car.
- 1998 Subaru Legacy
- 269,000 Kilometers or 167,148 miles
- 5 speed manual
- 2 Liter engine
- 4 wheel drive
- Power doors/locks/mirrors
- Full size spare
- Cd player tape deck combo
- Air conditioning
If your are interested in the gory details of buying a car in New Zealand, see below. If you want to know the quick and dirty way to buy a car in New Zealand, keep reading.
The Quick and Dirty
First, get yourself to Christchurch. Many backpackers are selling cars in Christchurch and this is where you will get the best deal. Next, go see Ian at the Backpackers Car Market. Despite all of my suspicions, this company actually does what it says it will do. Mainly, they provide a way for backpackers to sell cars to other backpackers while offering independent advise to both (they make their money buy charging the seller a parking fee and buy selling the peripheral necessities to to the buyer. No commissions.) . Natalie and I
were able to find our Subi, obtain a VIR report, get the Subi inspected by a off site mechanic (Tim), as well as purchase insurance, road side assistance, and the change of ownership paperwork. Best of all, Ian (the helpful guy who works at Backpackers Car Market) helped us through the entire procedure and explained each step to us in detail. To further sweeten the deal, everything from the inspection to the insurance was cheaper than I had been able to find on my own. What a great experience. Natalie and I were able to get everything done, including buying the Subi, for about $US 1900. This was a great deal and a wonderful buying experience. Thanks Ian.
How to Buy a Car in New Zealand
Many of the people that we have met in New Zealand talk about how travelers come to New Zealand, buy cars, and end up getting screwed because they purchased a lemon. After traveling the backpacking circuit for a couple of months, that makes sense. Many backpackers take the easy way out and skip really important steps. Like paying for a mechanic to inspect a vehicle before buying it. Natalie and I completed the following steps before purchasing our new Subi. It may break down in the future, and if it does you will hear about it, but I hope that these steps helped to eliminate most of the risk.
Buy a car in Christchurch
Many backpackers buy cars in Auckland (where they start) and sell them in Christchurch (their last stop before flying to Auckland and leaving the country). If you try to buy a car in Christchurch, their is a much larger market and prices are cheaper.
Get an Inspection
Buying a used car is like playing Russian Roulette. Take some of the risk out of the game and get an inspection
- www.aa.co.nz ($NZ130 at inspection center $NZ 145 for the mechanic to come to you)
Obtain a VIR (Vehicle Information Report)
This is basically the New Zealand Version of Car Fax. Make sure the car is not stolen, see the previous owners, etc
Check the WOF (Warranty of Fitness)
In New Zealand, every car needs a warranty of fitness to prove that it is road worthy. For cars older than 6 years, this needs to occur every 6 months. When buying a used car, make sure the vehicle has at least 5 months left on its WOF.
Current License
All cars need a current license (similar to a license and registration in the states). In New Zealand, this is tied to the car and not the driver. Thus, a used car should be properly plated and licensed with at least 6 months to go before the license runs out.
Transfer of Ownership
This painless procedure can be performed at the New Zealand Post Office for $NZ 25. If you want to officially own the car (and why would you choose otherwise) pay the money and get this done.
Insurance
Fire and Theft insurance is all you need to cover you for insurance. This protects any cars that you hit and it also covers you if your car is broken into or happens to catch on fire.
That is it, if you can get all this done, you are ready to wander freely about New Zealand. Congratulations!

