Monthly Archive for October, 2008

Meeting John Kelly

On a much more serious level than most of my posts tend to be, we were recently in Derry, Ireland (also known as Londonderry) where Bloody Sunday (1972) occurred.

The Museum of Free Derry is extremely informative with all things related to the Troubles and Civil Rights.  As an American growing up learning so much about the U.S. Civil Rights movements, it’s easy to forget other countries struggles towards resolving conflict and persecution.  And after reading a few chapters in a history book, and learning of people who died, it’s easy to forget that they were each people, with real lives and real families.

In fact, while in Derry, Justin and I had the privilege of meeting and spending some time talking with John Kelly.  He was only 23, in 1972 when Bloody Sunday occurred, but he remembers it like it was yesterday.  His younger brother, Michael Kelly (17) was shot in the stomach while standing near the rubble barricade in front of Rossville Flats.  Michael Kelly was unarmed.  Fourteen individuals total were tragically killed that day.  John shared with us the story of one of the 14 individuals killed that day, his friend simply trying to run home.  While he was running he was shot in the leg, and was trying to crawl under a fence only 5 yards from his home when he was shot again and killed.

As John shared with us tears came to my face, because it was not just a history book, but it was one mans story of loosing his brother.

Thank you John for sharing with us of loosing your brother.  The violent, tragic acts of that day will not be forgotten.  But most importantly all of the Derry citizens that risked their lives that day will be loved and remembered by friends and family.  Especially, young, 15 year old, Michael.

Much Love for the Kiwi Immigration Department


New Zealanders, or Kiwis, that I have met here in Ireland have given Natalie and I a lot to think about in regards to whether or not we would be able to get a 1 year holiday working visa in New Zealand. To add to our nervousness, a New Zealand guide book we were checking out at a book store in Galway informed us that Crossiant breakfeast on the beach at Tossa de Mar.JPGworking visa spots were limited and that we should apply as soon as possible. Yikes! Well, I went back to the apartment (all lodging begins to feel the same after a while so instead of trying to remember the name of each hostel I simply refer to all of them collectively as “the apartment”) and applied online at the New Zealand Immigration site. About 24 hours later I found out that we were approved for the 1 year Holiday Work Visa. Sweet! Seriously, I was really surprised at how quickly they processed our applications. I am not sure if we will stay in New Zealand for the next year or not, but I am happy to have the flexibility and the ability to work legally while enjoying the exotic wonderfulness that I hope is New Zealand.

Although not taken in Ireland (those pictures are coming soon), the above image adequately captures are current level of excitement.

It happened to Natalie (or) The Ongoing Saga of the Absurd: Ireland

The following short tales are true stories from my time in Ireland.

Good Dinner!
I was walking down Saint James Place (some Irish streets make you feel like you are on a Monopoly board) with a big soup pot and a spoon that I was borrowing from next door, so I could make some soup.  As I was walking, an Irishman saw me and kindly said, “Good Dinner!”, with a smile and a hearty accent.  I responded, “I hope it will be a good dinner”, only later to realize that he said, “Good Day!”  Fortunately, the butternut squash soup did turn out delicious, but it may have caused me gas, but that could be the Guinness too right?

Boston Beauty
One of three guys playing authentic Irish music in a pub one night, hmmm, that sounds like a joke.  Well, the guy meets me, finds out that I am from Detroit, and tells me it’s close to Boston and that is where I am really from.  It being midnight in an Irish Pub, I figured I shouldn’t argue with the guys relative view of geography.  I returned to my seat with a slight identity crisis as he announced and dedicated his next song, “Boston Beauty” to me.  Ironically, I saw him on the streets of Derry the next day, he recognized me and asked if I was coming to the Pub again.  I think he just wanted another excuse to sing “Boston Beauty”.

The Not So French Girls
Justin informed me that he thought four French girls were laughing at him.  In Ireland?  No way!  Okay, well girls of any nationality could laugh at Justin in any country so this did not sound all that ridiculous.  About 20 minutes later I met four girls from Italy.  I asked Justin if these were the French girls.  He cowardly lowered his head and admitted that he thought their Italian sounded French.  This was quickly forgiven as I realized we have been in both Italy and France in the last few weeks and Justin speaks neither language.  Needless to say, we took the four Italian girls to the Pub that night.  I drank my first Guinness and spoke in Italian with an ever increasing Irish accent.  The Italian girls shouted “Bravissimo” and applauded, and although each of the Italian girls were beautiful, we never did hear “Bella Italiano” that evening.

V Eggs
One evening in Galway, I was in the kitchen of our hostel cooking eggs, when a guy from Spain approached me and introduced himself.  This being a huge (200 something person) hostel, in which you could meet a new person from a new country every minute if that was your goal, I didn’t think much about meeting Carlos.  Okay, not true, I must confess that when he introduced himself as Carlos, I nearly lost it.  You see over the past month I have had a cough that comes and goes depending upon how much second hand smoke I have been exposed to.  So, my cough became know as “Carlos”, with frequent references like, “oh Carlos, not again?”, cough, cough, cough.

Carlos (the actual man, not my cough) came back a few minutes later and admired my cooking, saying, “Incredible, incredible.”  Then pausing to say, “It makes me curious”.  Carlos wanted to know where I learned how to make the eggs I was cooking.  I had cut a circle from the center of a piece of bread and I was frying an egg in the hole in the center of the bread.  I told Carlos, feeling extra American at the time, that I saw it in a movie.  He asked which film, and I replied “V for Vendetta”, in which he exclaimed, “Yes!  I saw it too!”  Carlos then wanted to know what  we would call this type of egg in America.  Sadly, I didn’t have a good answer, as I had just began calling them “V eggs” because of V for Vendetta.  He laughed and decided he would call them “V huevos”. Hooray for enculturation of the Victory Egg in Spain!

Rainbows in Belfast

I am apparently ill informed regarding Irish weather. Thinking that rain in Ireland typically resembles more of a mist than actual rain, Natalie and I headed out to explore the city without an umbrella. This exploration quickly turned into a search for a winter hat (for me) as the Siberian style winds were causing all feeling in my ears to vanish. On Sunday, nothing in Belfast is open until 1:00 pm. (This is not really a problem, unless your ears are really cold and you are looking for a  winter hat to help fend of frostbite.) With time to kill, we walked to the center of town and got caught in a surprise rain storm. Kicking ourselves for not bringing an umbrella, we ducked into a local bar for an Americano and a dose of Irish culture.

Feeling well caffeinated and cheered by the now sunny weather, we headed back out to explore Belfast. 1 hour of exploration and a cozy winter hat for my ears later, the sky began to look ominous. I mean really, really, dark. I was starting to get a bit apprehensive as I noticed locals running into the closest shops and bars. Than the rain started to fall. Sideways. I imagine that the sideways style rain was the unfortunate result of the gale like winds that kicked up at about the same time. We ducked into a covered doorway, out  of the wind, to wait it out. This offered us the rare opportunity to watch tourist and Irishmen alike getting blown down the street, usually with their umbrellas turned out backwards.

The rain eventually dissipated and we were treated to a brilliant rainbow that spanned from horizon to horizon. I mean this rainbow was like nothing I have ever seen before. Each color was brilliantly displayed against a sunny sky and the colors seemed to sparkle as the last of the rain drifted through it. I imagine that this happens often as we were the only ones on the street taking in the stunning view.

New Pictures Uploaded (Paris, Spain, and Andorra)


I know the pictures are coming a bit late, but I was finally able to upload our pictures from Paris, Andorra, and Spain. To view, select the Gallery link in the top at the top of the page, or following the below links to specific albums. Enjoy.

Paris

Spain and Andorra

Andorra. Catalan. And a Few Words on Driving in Spain.


With time disappearing quickly through our fingers, Natalie and I were only able to spend a day in Andorra. This time was marked by the following four impressions.

  1. Andorra would be a beautiful place to spend the summer hiking/biking. It would also be a superb place to spend the winter skiing/snowboarding. Although the fall in Andorra is excellent, it is not really the best time to be there as the snow has not arrived and it is a bit cold for hiking (unless of course you bring the proper gear).
  2. Andorra is a ski nation. This tiny nation (2.5 time smaller than Paris, France) has created an entire economy around snow sports. It is really something to see.
  3. Drunk people can be difficult to deal with when you do not speak their language. 2 drunk 20 something year old boys decided that 3:00 am was a good time to be extremely loud outside of our hotel room door. I had quite a few words with them, but I am pretty sure they were mostly making fun of me as I was the only person who appeared to think that their behavior constituted an issue. They left. Eventually.
  4. Andorra has some high quality spring water. Natalie and I were in the village of Arsinal, when a van pulled up to the local spring (water pouring out a of bricked in wall like area beside the road) and opened their back doors. Inside, were roughly 100 one gallon jugs which they began to systematically fill up and load back into the van. I drew a few possible conclusions from this.(1) They do not have running water and must manually bring water to where they live. Although this is possible, it seems likely that they would have, long before buying the van, figured out how to get running water into their abode. (2) Their water is full of sulfur and they need to water to keep from overloading their bodies with sulfur. Also improbable based on the reason previously explained. (3) The are bottling the water and selling it for a profit. I like this concept, but if this is the case, their operation is so slow there is no way they are making enough money to pay for the gas in that van. (4) The spring outside of our hotel is actually the fountain of eternal youth and these old Andorrans were getting their yearly supply of immortality.

Overall, our time in Andorra was positive if not a bit perplexing. For example, Spain has a customs check for all motorized transport out of Andorra. Interestingly, this appears to be an exercise for the motorists. Each motorist is required to park, turn off the car, get out and open the trunk. This accomplished, a customs official looks in the car for .0056 seconds, before declaring the car “fine”. The motorist closes the trunk and zooms happily away, with 500 kilos of Andorran cocaine safely packed inside Osprey backpacks. (Disclaimer: I am not importing or export cocaine from/to Andorra or any other nation.)

Catalan

The Northeast section of Spain contains a province or state referred to as Catalan. They have their own language, Catalan, which is an unfathomable mixture of Spanish and French, with a bit of Italian through in here and there for good measure. It is my understanding that no one speaks Catalan outside of the Autonomous State of Catalan (I asked a local if Spain is divided into states or provinces and he told me they are called Autonomous States.) and the country of Andorra. I speak a smattering of Spanish which is about enough to get around a Spanish speaking country. Catalan is defiantly not Spanish and, although getting around was not difficult, I was not able to refresh my Spanish.

Spanish Driving.

Spanish drivers are….polite. This was a difficult change for me as driving in Italy is a survival of the fittest routine. Spanish drivers stop when a pedestrian is standing on the sidewalk waiting to use a cross walk. In Italy, people don’t use cross walks and I almost caused an accident by crossing the street outside a cross walk. Seriously. I felt bad. This politeness took some getting used to and I am afraid that I failed to stop for many pedestrians as they calmly waited to use the cross walk. Lesson learned. When driving in other countries, never assume that you are in Italy.

Sold on Girona

On arrival, Girona, Spain immediately began to remind me of Kalamazoo, Michigan (U.S.A.) in many ways.  We got off our Ryan Air flight (20 euros per person) and Girona captivated me in an instant.  Did I mention we woke up at 4:50am, had to take a cab in Paris because the metro doesn’t begin until 5:30 am?  Oh, and Justin had a 101 degree fever.

Arriving in Girona we were able to check right into Pension Margarit -our new sanctuary. It  offered a bed and place to hang laundry.  Justin recovered from his fever, the laundry dried, and we were able to explore Girona clothed.
Falling in love with Girona was easy for me.  Four rivers total flow into the city.  We are right along Rio Onyar, with eleven (the sexy number) bridges total.  I could not imagine a more beautiful Spanish city all lit up at night, with the lights sparkling on the river.
It is romantic.  We treated ourselves to tapas and a bottle of awesome Spanish wine.  Thanks for the recommendation Pedro.  D.O. Taverna Catalana, just opened, and Pedro, a Spanish teacher from Poland spending some time in Girona  working on his Spanish and working as a server, made our evening wonderful.  Thanks again Pedro!  Best to you as a teacher, and the best to Taverna Catalana offering the best atmosphere, tapas and wine selection in Girona.

Pedro’s not the only awesome person we have met.  We have also enjoyed Marc who works at Pension Margarit, as he was so helpful, fun and friendly.  We would come back to Girona, just to hang out with Marc.
We were also able to meet Anna, an extremely talented painter.  She opened a studio about a year ago, Encant botiga-taller d’art.  She will leave for Paris, September 2009 and spend a year studying art there.  Anna, maybe we will see you in Paris?

Another great element of Girona is the city’s easy accessibility to both the Mediterranean Sea and the south of France.  I don’t remember any Roses or many flowers at all, but it turns out Roses, Spain, right on the Mediterranean, is a great place to play frisbee on the beach (with big sheep dogs running with you).  You can only play so much frisbee with Spanish sheep dogs before the urge to jump back in the car occurs.  Especially when your frisbee has been doubling as a dinner plate, dog drool quickly becomes a pressing concern.  Like magic, within a half hour, we were in the south of France enjoying some pastries on the ocean.  Our day in Spain and France has been truly remarkable, and it’s become the best part of lovable Girona.  Being so close to France, a handful of national parks, and the coast only teased me more into the fairy tale Girona has become in my heart.

Taking a Breather


Italy was a fun filled joy ride, packed full of more experiences that I had time to process. Paris was an enjoyable assault on all of my senses, as I spent two days walking around trying to take everything in at once. By the time Natalie and I arrived in Girona, Spain, I was exhausted. Living life as a world traveling nomad is wonderful, but the combination of the hectic pace and continual flow of new information (Not to mention the 100 decisions that need to be made every day. Many of these are not very important but that can be difficult to determine at the time :-) ) left be worn down and tired.

Spain was a relief. We decided to stay in Girona (about 75 minutes north of Barcelona) in a reasonably priced hotel that provided us with our own bathroom. Although the city has about 86,000 residents, it is not large when compared to the major European cities. Thus, we have been able to wander leisurely through its streets, go out to dinner (a rare treat for us) and sleep as much as we require. The tourist in me feels guilty about these decisions. After all, Barcelona is relatively close and Spain is a wonderful country that I really want to explore. At the same time, the traveler in me (he is young still, but growing more mature - I hope) warns that if I do not learn to take it easy, I will begin to hate traveling. So I have taken naps. Every day. It is great.

Of course, now that our adventurous spirts have been fully recharged, we are leaving Girona, Spain and heading to the little know country of Andorra. Nothing helps to fuel the spirit of adventure like a road trip in a foreign country through mountain roads.

Think Parisian, Not tourist

Avoiding long lines and steep admission to museums and other monuments, forces one to appreciate Parisian life on a different level.  Below is a list of a few highlights I enjoyed while in Paris.  These aren’t in the guide books:

  1. A picnic in the park below the Eiffel Tower.  Avoid the line and the fee to take the lift.  Perhaps even witness a film crew and body guards following the “hip European boy band” we still don’t know the name of.
  2. Savor each bite of your FREE croissants in the morning.
  3. Walking through the Latin Quarter on a Sunday afternoon as couples dance in the street to their friend playing an accordion outside their favorite cafe.
  4. Cimetiere du pere Lachaise (a big cemetery) was recently opened to the public (read: 200 years ago) and entrance is still FREE, who knows how long this will last.  Here we visited Oscar Wilde’s grave and counted the number of women who have kissed his large tombstone.  I lost count, but the amazing variety of lipstick shades, colors, and gloss is rather entertaining.  In case you were wondering, I did not pucker up, it just seemed to much of a bio-hazard.  Plus, have you read, The Picture of Dorian Gray?  It’s creepy.
  5. While standing on Pont Neuf (a bridge on the Siene) we spent some time closely looking at the boats individuals permanently live on.  Look for the colorful rainbow boat, with the largest collection of rubber duckie’s I have ever seen in my life.  I even realized that these floating “households” have mailboxes build into the sides of the bridges, accessible only with a key, of course.  They wouldn’t want a curious tourist like me trying to steal their water bill.
  6. Shopping around for the cheapest crepe in town.  Why pay 8 euros for a crepe near the Eifel Tower or Notre Dame, when you can get a Nutella crepe for 2 euros?  Oh, and make it look so delicious that a group of French photography students begin practicing through the lense with you, and your crepe eating husband, as their subjects.
  7. Don’t spend 40 euros on a soup and salad!  Instead buy food, at the best bakery, cheese shop and produce markets.  Return to the kitchen at your hotel, hostel, inn or other place of lodging and cook your own gourmet meal for around 4-7 euros.
  8. Walk along the art show’s in the evening.  We caught an incredible photography display outside the Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Gardens).
  9. We also discovered a secret little park around Notre Dame that opens only Sunday mornings until around noon when they lock it once more.  You can enter, take a few pictures, and smell the roses.  Just don’t try to bring your dog in.

If you end up in Paris sometime in the future, I wouldn’t recommend trying to experience the same things we experienced.  Instead, have your own incredible Parisian adventure.  Be creative, have fun, and try to think less like a  tourist and more like a local.  But I guess that advice could serve you well in any location

After talking to locals, as well as a few Australians and Americans living in Paris for 3-6 months, we have discovered easy ways to live on $30 (USDS) or less, per person, per day.  And still have a comfortable bed, a hot shower and great food and entertainment.

As Leaves Fell, We Walked Through Paris


For me, Fall is the best of seasons. I understand that the metaphoric death of the earth as it prepares for winter can be a bit morbid. I am not morbid. Really. For whatever reason, I am drawn to the subtle beauty of the season as the leaves slowly turn into energetic colors (reminding me of Halloween) of orange, red, and yellow. I can stand for hours, entranced by the gentle dance of leaves, dislodged by a soft wind as they fall, spinning and twirling towards the ground.

I cannot vouch for Paris during the other three seasons, but it is wonderful in the Fall. The falling leaves mix with the energetic business of people moving up and down the streets and, for a moment, the leaves appear to soften the harshness of the city as famous buildings and fashionable people alike are caught up in a sudden wind tunnel of falling leaves. I love it.

Our time in Paris has been short (2 days, 3 nights) and there is no way to really experience this city during this brief snapshot. Instead of trying to go into every museum and church (there are many excellent ones to choose from) Natalie and I have spent the last two days walking the city. It is my belief that to understand a city, one must walk its streets and mingle with its people. It is not enough to walk around the touristy areas and to mingle with the vendors who make a living off of selling Eiffel tower replicas to tourists. To begin experiencing the heart of a city, one must wander the streets that tourists rarely venture, talk to shop keepers that are not invested in tourism, and drink coffee at the locations frequented mostly by the locals. Although this approach is hard on the legs, it has never left me disappointed..

So what do I now know about Paris? Well….Paris is as friendly as you want it to be. Most people speak English but only after you try to speak French. Start with English, and you will be disappointed. Start with French, and you will find loads of encouragement. Paris is expensive. Really, really, expensive. Everything I want to eat and drink and do here is mind numbingly expensive. If you want to do anything at all, be prepared to spend double the money you think it should cost. Paris is fashionable. The people here make most average Americans look like slobs who were never taught to dress themselves. Even the school children make me want to buy new clothes to cover my readily visible Americanism. Lastly, the Parisian people remind me of home. Sure they speak French and are dressed better, but when I stop trying to understand what they are saying to each other, I see that their body language communicates the same joy, sadness and disappointment that I see on the streets of America. Even more amusing, everyone is always in the middle of sending a text message. Or reading one. They are talking on their cell phones and listening to their iPods. Although it is a surprise to me (read: I am sure I am the last one to know), we are more alike than we are different.

Tonight is our last night in Paris and I am a bit sad about it. Our time here has been hectic and intense and I will not be sorry to leave that behind. But… I want to come back to Paris and stay for a month or so. I want to wander the streets before the city awakens and spend long hours reading a novel at a street side cafe. I want to know the city well enough to walk around without a map. This is a city of dreams and I hope, some time in the future, to live that dream for just a little longer.